As a kid in the early 1970s I heard stories from travellers about Kathmandu. I suppose I filed the info away.. I certainly had the wish to go there. Exotic music.. Tibetan mysteries.. newar temples.. famous charras…. Well.. the hippies I am sorry to say had children who turned out to be yuppies who come here to pose for pictures to post on facebook.
Ahem. ( i gotta admit doing it as well.. )
As for the charras.. well.. its illegal here and anyone stupid enough to trust someone trafficking it on the street.. deserves to pay the fine that may be expected to be extorted from them ..
30-40 odd years ago..maybe.. yup.
The situation here is one of transition.. its not a republic.. and not a monarchy.. I guess it will find its way.. over the years nepal has generated a lot of good will.. ( best to think positive...)
I went looking for a gemstone yesterday here.. and entered the shop of a Tibetan trader.. there are dozens of Tibetan shops selling antiquites and all the art and craft that has accumulated in Tibet over the years.. its the heritage of a people that have lost their country.. and are losing their identity if the guy in the shop is anyting to judge by..
He didn’t have the stone i wanted so I asked about dzi.. not any more.. he said.. I said maybe 20 years ago.. he nodded.. he was decidedly not happy.. I said maybe in a new york boutique for $10 000.. he nodded again..
I left the shop none the happier myself..
the gem i sought is called gomedh which they say means cows piss. .. as the best is the color of cows piss.. in english its hessionite.. it is supposed to protect the wearer from the harmful influence of the dragons head.. or rahu.. the north node of the moon.. quando in roma..... waisa desh. jaisa bhesh.
kathmandu has the worst air ive ever been subject to.. i would stay longer here but for its poor quality. my friendly advice to the people here is clean up the garbage on the streets... get some pollution controls.. more traffic cops.. and above all .. give pedestrians the right of way.. otherwise you encourage aggressive driving.. and the state of the roads that you have right now.. failed state. or def. heading that way..
I did find the cows' piss I was looking for.. a nicely faceted exemplar... and had it set in sterling for a reasonable price.. I had a good day in toto.. and will probably value the memory of it.
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